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What it is
Guide to freshwater aquarium keeping including tank setup, nitrogen cycle, stocking, water parameters, planted tanks, aquascaping styles, maintenance, disease prevention, and fish compatibility.
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SKILL.md
404 lines · 2,866 words
Gather requirements. Ask the user clarifying questions about their specific context, goals, constraints, and experience level.
Analyze the situation. Review the information provided and identify key factors, challenges, and opportunities relevant to aquarium keeper.
Guide to freshwater aquarium keeping including tank setup, nitrogen cycle, stocking, water parameters, planted tanks, aquascaping styles, maintenance, disease prevention, and fish compatibility.
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What it covers
When to Use
Process
Questions to Ask First
Tank Selection and Setup
The Nitrogen Cycle (Most Important Concept)
Stocking Guide
Water Parameters
Planted Tank Basics
Aquascaping Styles
Maintenance Schedule
Disease Prevention and Treatment
Feeding
Safety Considerations
Progression Path
Resources
Output Format
Example
Edge Cases
Develop the framework. Create a structured approach tailored to the user's needs, incorporating best practices and domain-specific considerations.
Deliver actionable output. Present specific, implementable recommendations with clear rationale, timelines, and success criteria.
Address edge cases. Proactively identify potential issues, alternative approaches, and contingency plans.
Use this skill when:
User needs guidance on aquarium keeper
User asks about aquarium keeper best practices or techniques
User wants a structured approach to aquarium keeper
Do NOT use this skill when:
A more specialized skill exists for the specific subtopic
The request is outside the scope of aquarium keeper
Before recommending a setup:
Have you kept fish before? (Never / Had a goldfish / Some experience / Experienced)
What size tank are you considering? (5 gal / 10-20 gal / 30-55 gal / 75+ gal)
What type of fish interest you? (Colorful community, single centerpiece, shrimp, planted tank)
Where will the tank be placed? (Room, surface it will sit on, access to electrical outlets)
What is your budget? ($50-100 / $100-300 / $300-700 / $700+)
How much time can you spend on maintenance? (10 min/week / 30 min/week / 1+ hour/week)
Do you have children or pets that might interact with the tank?
Are you interested in live plants?
How important is the aesthetic/design aspect to you?
Are you aware that new tanks need to "cycle" before adding fish? (This is critical)
Bigger is better for beginners: Larger water volume is more stable and forgiving of mistakes
Minimum recommended: 10 gallons for most beginners (5 gallons for experienced with nano fish or shrimp only)
20 gallons: Sweet spot for beginners - stable, affordable, good stocking options
55+ gallons: Wide variety of fish, very stable, but heavier and more expensive
Water weighs 8.3 lbs per gallon
A 20-gallon tank with water, substrate, and equipment weighs ~225 lbs
A 55-gallon tank weighs ~625 lbs
Ensure your stand and floor can support the weight
Never place a tank on furniture not rated for the weight
Tank: Glass or acrylic (glass is more scratch-resistant, acrylic is lighter)
Filter: Rated for your tank size or larger
Hang-on-back (HOB): Easy, affordable, good for beginners (AquaClear, Marineland Penguin)
Canister filter: Best filtration, quieter, more expensive (Fluval, Eheim)
Sponge filter: Gentle, great for shrimp tanks and breeding, powered by air pump
Heater: Most tropical fish need 76-80F. Get adjustable heater rated for your tank (5 watts per gallon rule). Brands: Eheim Jager, Fluval, Aqueon Pro.
Thermometer: Verify heater is working correctly ($3-8)
Lighting: LED is standard. Basic LED for fish-only, plant-specific LED for planted tanks (Fluval Plant 3.0, Nicrew)
Substrate: Gravel (easy, inert), sand (natural look), planted tank soil (Fluval Stratum, ADA Amazonia for plants)
Water conditioner: Dechlorinates tap water. Seachem Prime is the standard ($5-10)
Test kit: API Freshwater Master Test Kit ($25) - tests ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH. ESSENTIAL.
Place tank on level, sturdy surface (use a leveling mat if surface is uneven)
Rinse substrate thoroughly (until water runs clear)
Add substrate to tank (1-2 inches for fish-only, 2-3 inches for planted)
Install filter, heater, and thermometer (do not plug in yet)
Add hardscape: Rocks, driftwood (arrange before filling with water)
Fill tank slowly (pour onto a plate to avoid disturbing substrate)
Add water conditioner (dose for full tank volume)
Turn on filter, heater, and lights
DO NOT ADD FISH YET - the tank must cycle first
Fish produce ammonia (toxic). Beneficial bacteria convert ammonia to nitrite (also toxic), then to nitrate (much less toxic). These bacteria must colonize your filter before the tank is safe for fish. This takes 4-8 weeks.
Fish waste / Food decay --> AMMONIA (NH3) [toxic at any level]
|
Nitrosomonas bacteria
|
NITRITE (NO2) [toxic at any level]
|
Nitrospira bacteria
|
NITRATE (NO3) [safe up to ~40 ppm, removed by water changes]Set up tank completely (filter running, heater on)
Add ammonia source: Pure ammonia (Dr. Tim's Ammonium Chloride) to 2-4 ppm
Test daily with API test kit
Week 1-2: Ammonia remains high, nitrite at 0
Week 2-4: Ammonia drops, nitrite spikes
Week 4-8: Nitrite drops, nitrate appears
Cycle is complete when: Ammonia and nitrite both read 0 ppm within 24 hours of adding ammonia
Do a large water change (50-80%) to reduce nitrate before adding fish
Add fish gradually (not all at once)
Use established filter media from an existing tank
Bottled bacteria (Seachem Stability, Fritz TurboStart 700) - helps but not instant
Keep temperature at 80-82F (bacteria grow faster)
Keep ammonia present but not above 4 ppm (too high kills the bacteria you are growing)
Never let ammonia or nitrite reach 0 during cycling (bacteria starve)
If fish are already in the tank, the cycle must happen with them present
Test water DAILY
Water change immediately if ammonia or nitrite exceeds 0.25 ppm (25-50% change)
Use Seachem Prime to detoxify ammonia temporarily (re-dose every 48 hours)
This is stressful for fish and can cause illness or death
One inch of fish per gallon is a rough starting point (does not account for fish shape, bioload, or activity level)
Better approach: Research specific species' space requirements
Start with 3-5 hardy fish, add more after 2-3 weeks
Never add more than 3-5 fish at a time (prevents ammonia spikes)
Community Tank Favorites:
Neon Tetra: Schooling (6+ required), peaceful, colorful, small. Temp: 72-78F
Corydoras Catfish: Bottom dwellers, peaceful, active, social (6+ required). Temp: 72-79F
Guppies: Colorful, active, breed readily, hardy. Temp: 72-82F
Platy: Peaceful, colorful, easy, livebearers. Temp: 70-80F
Honey Gourami: Peaceful centerpiece, beautiful, one per tank or pair. Temp: 72-82F
Cherry Barb: Peaceful, colorful, schooling. Temp: 73-81F
Bottom Dwellers:
Corydoras (various species): Must have sand or smooth substrate (barbels are sensitive)
Otocinclus: Tiny algae eaters, delicate, need established tank, group of 6+
Kuhli Loach: Eel-like, hides during day, active at night, needs hiding spots
Algae Crew:
Nerite Snails: Best algae eaters, cannot reproduce in freshwater
Amano Shrimp: Excellent algae eaters, peaceful, community-safe
Mystery Snails: Interesting behavior, multiple colors, can reproduce
Common Pleco: Grows to 18-24 inches, needs 100+ gallon tank
Bala Shark: Grows to 12+ inches, schooling, needs 125+ gallons
Oscar: Grows to 14 inches, aggressive, needs 75+ gallons
Chinese Algae Eater: Becomes aggressive with age, attacks other fish
Goldfish: Need cold water (65-72F), massive bio-load, 20+ gallons per fish (not tropical community fish)
Match temperature requirements
Match temperament (do not mix aggressive with peaceful)
Match water flow preferences
Provide appropriate tank mates for schooling fish (6+ of same species)
Avoid fin nippers with long-finned fish
Research adult size, not pet store juvenile size
Male-to-female ratios matter for livebearers (1 male : 2-3 females minimum)
| Parameter | Ideal Range | Testing Frequency |
|---|---|---|
| Ammonia (NH3) | 0 ppm | Weekly (daily during cycling) |
| Nitrite (NO2) | 0 ppm | Weekly (daily during cycling) |
| Nitrate (NO3) | Under 20 ppm (under 40 acceptable) | Weekly |
| pH | 6.5-7.5 for most community fish | Weekly |
| Temperature | 76-80F for tropical | Daily (glance at thermometer) |
| GH (general hardness) | 4-12 dGH for most | Monthly |
| KH (carbonate hardness) | 3-8 dKH | Monthly |
Weekly 25-30% water change is the foundation of aquarium health
Use a gravel vacuum/siphon to remove debris from substrate while draining
Replace with temperature-matched, dechlorinated water
Consistency is more important than volume - weekly is key
High ammonia: Not cycled, overstocked, overfeeding, dead fish/plant
High nitrate: Insufficient water changes, overstocked, overfeeding
pH crash: Low KH (buffering capacity), add crushed coral or baking soda
Cloudy water: Bacterial bloom (new tank, usually resolves in days), green water (algae bloom, reduce light)
Absorb nitrate (natural filtration)
Produce oxygen
Provide hiding spots for fish (reduces stress)
Compete with algae for nutrients
Create a natural, beautiful environment
Java Fern: Attach to wood/rock, do NOT bury rhizome, nearly indestructible
Anubias: Attach to hardscape, slow-growing, very hardy
Java Moss: Attach anywhere, great for shrimp, fast spreading
Amazon Sword: Root feeder, needs root tab fertilizer, grows large
Cryptocoryne: Various species, root feeders, may "melt" when first planted (recovers)
Hornwort: Floating or planted, fast-growing, great for beginners
Vallisneria: Grass-like, spreads by runners, easy and attractive
Light: 6-8 hours per day, plant-specific LED (too much light = algae)
Substrate: Nutrient-rich soil (Fluval Stratum, UNS Controsoil) or gravel with root tabs
Fertilizer: Liquid fertilizer (Seachem Flourish, Easy Green) 1-2x per week
CO2: Not required for easy plants. Injected CO2 dramatically improves growth for demanding species.
Timer: Automate lighting schedule for consistency (prevents algae)
Japanese rock garden aesthetic
Odd number of rocks (typically 3-5) arranged with one dominant stone
Simple carpet plants (Monte Carlo, dwarf hairgrass)
Minimalist, serene, challenging to maintain (requires CO2 and high light for carpet)
Mimics natural landscapes
Driftwood, rocks, diverse plant species
Creates depth and perspective
The most popular and approachable style
Example: Forest scene with branching wood, mosses, stem plants
Plant-focused, dense, colorful arrangement
No visible hardscape (wood/rock hidden by plants)
Uses "streets" (rows of plants creating depth)
Requires extensive plant knowledge and maintenance
Like an underwater flower garden
Overgrown, wild, natural appearance
Low maintenance once established
Let plants grow freely with minimal trimming
Dense, provides excellent fish habitat
Good for beginners who want a planted look without precision
Use the rule of thirds for focal point placement
Odd numbers of rocks look more natural than even
Create depth: Taller elements in back, shorter in front
Substrate slope: Higher in back than front creates perspective
Research rock and wood safety: Some materials alter water chemistry
Check temperature
Observe fish for unusual behavior, spots, or injuries
Verify filter and heater are running
Feed fish (only what they eat in 2-3 minutes, once or twice daily)
25-30% water change with gravel vacuum
Test water parameters (ammonia, nitrite, nitrate, pH)
Clean glass (algae scraper or magnetic cleaner)
Remove dead plant leaves
Check filter flow (reduced flow may mean it needs cleaning)
Clean or replace filter media (rinse in old tank water, NEVER tap water - chlorine kills beneficial bacteria)
Trim plants
Check equipment (heater thermostat, airline tubing, light timer)
Clean the outside of the tank and stand
Replace filter media as it deteriorates (not all at once - keep some established media)
Replace light bulbs/LEDs (annually or as output diminishes)
Descale heater
Replace air stones (every 3-6 months if using air pump)
Quarantine new fish for 2-4 weeks before adding to main tank
Maintain water quality (weekly water changes, do not overstock or overfeed)
Avoid stress (sudden temperature changes, aggressive tank mates, poor water quality)
Feed quality food, varied diet
Do not buy fish from tanks where other fish appear sick
Ich (White Spot Disease)
Symptoms: White spots like grains of salt on body and fins
Treatment: Raise temperature to 86F for 2 weeks, add aquarium salt (1 tbsp/5 gal), or use Ich-X medication
Highly contagious, treat the whole tank
Fin Rot
Symptoms: Frayed, disintegrating fins, often with reddened edges
Cause: Bacterial, usually triggered by poor water quality
Treatment: Improve water quality (frequent changes), antibacterial medication if severe
Dropsy
Symptoms: Bloated body, scales sticking out like a pinecone
Cause: Internal organ failure, often untreatable
Treatment: Isolate, Epsom salt bath, antibiotics (low success rate)
Often a sign of underlying chronic water quality issues
Velvet
Symptoms: Gold/rust dust-like coating, fish rubbing against objects
Treatment: Dim lights (parasite is photosynthetic), copper medication, raise temperature
Always remove activated carbon from filter before medicating (carbon absorbs medication)
Follow dosing instructions exactly
Complete the full treatment course
Quarantine when possible (avoid medicating the whole tank unnecessarily)
Live plants and invertebrates (snails, shrimp) are sensitive to many medications - research compatibility
Feed only what fish consume in 2-3 minutes
Once or twice daily (once is fine for most fish)
Remove uneaten food to prevent water quality issues
Fast one day per week (optional, mimics natural conditions, aids digestion)
Flakes/pellets: Staple diet, choose quality brands (Hikari, New Life Spectrum, Fluval Bug Bites)
Frozen foods: Bloodworms, brine shrimp, daphnia (excellent supplemental nutrition)
Freeze-dried: Convenient but less nutritious than frozen
Vegetables: Blanched zucchini, cucumber, peas (shelled) for herbivores
Algae wafers: For bottom feeders and algae eaters
Electrical safety near water: Use GFCI outlet, drip loops on all cords
Wash hands before and after working in the tank
Some fish have venomous spines (certain catfish) - handle carefully
Heavy tanks: Ensure floor and stand can support the weight
Children should be supervised around aquariums
Some medications are toxic to humans - wash hands after handling
CO2 systems operate under pressure - follow manufacturer guidelines
Phase 1: Set up 10-20 gallon tank, cycle properly, stock with hardy community fish
Phase 2: Add live plants (easy species), learn water chemistry, establish maintenance routine
Phase 3: Upgrade or add a second tank, try aquascaping, explore new species
Phase 4: Planted tank with CO2, demanding fish species, possible breeding project
Phase 5: Advanced aquascaping, high-tech planted tank, rare or challenging species
Phase 6: Competition aquascaping, mentoring beginners, contributing to the community
Websites: Aquarium Co-Op (aquariumcoop.com) - educational content and quality products
YouTube: Aquarium Co-Op, Foo the Flowerhorn, MD Fish Tanks, SerpaDesign (aquascaping)
Books: "The Simple Guide to Freshwater Aquariums" by David Boruchowitz
Apps: AqAdvisor (stocking calculator), Aquarimate
Forums: r/Aquariums, r/PlantedTank, The Planted Tank forum
Local: Fish stores (NOT big box pet stores) provide expert advice and healthier fish
Deliver the response as a structured document with clear headings and actionable content. Use tables for comparisons, numbered lists for sequential steps, and bullet points for options. Include specific examples where applicable.
[Aquarium Keeper deliverable]
1. Context and objectives
2. Analysis or framework
3. Specific recommendations with rationale
4. Action items with timelineInput: "Help me with aquarium keeper for a mid-size project."
Output: A complete aquarium keeper framework tailored to the specific context, with actionable steps, relevant considerations, and measurable outcomes.
Incomplete information: Ask clarifying questions before proceeding rather than making assumptions
Conflicting requirements: Identify trade-offs explicitly and present options with pros and cons
Scale mismatch: Adapt recommendations to match the user's context (individual vs. team vs. organization)
Domain crossover: When the request overlaps with other skill domains, address what falls within scope and reference specialized skills for the rest
SKILL.md
404 lines · 2,866 words
The text of SKILL.md is shown as it downloads, under the Apache-2.0 license, by Ferrox Labs. The license is the one in the file's own frontmatter.
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