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Sets up a home composting system from bin selection to first harvest, covering tumbler, static bin, and vermicompost options.
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SKILL.md
306 lines · 2,907 words
Use this skill when:
User asks about starting a compost bin or pile at home
User wants to choose between composting methods (tumbler, bin, worm bin)
User needs help with the green/brown ratio or compost ingredients
Sets up a home composting system from bin selection to first harvest, covering tumbler, static bin, and vermicompost options.
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“Create a bot that uses the Composting Starter Guide skill, and show me the plan first.”
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What it covers
When to Use
Process
Output Format
Rules
Edge Cases
Example
Home Composting Setup Plan
User has a composting problem (smell, pests, not decomposing)
User wants to reduce food waste through composting
User asks what can and cannot be composted
Do NOT use when:
User needs commercial or large-scale composting solutions
User asks about biogas systems or methane digesters
User wants to design a municipal composting program
User asks about using finished compost in garden beds (use gardening skills)
User asks about in-ground composting for specific soil types
Assess the user's composting situation. Ask for:
Housing type: house with yard, townhouse with small yard, apartment (balcony or indoor only)
Space available: full backyard, small patio, indoor only
Waste type: kitchen scraps only, kitchen + yard waste, primarily yard waste
Volume: how much compostable waste per week (small: 1-2 gallons, medium: 2-5 gallons, large: 5+ gallons)
Climate: hot/dry, temperate, cold winters, humid/tropical
Experience level: never composted, tried and failed, some experience
Budget: minimal (under $30), moderate ($30-100), flexible ($100+)
Recommend a composting method. Match the method to the situation:
Tumbler compost bin:
Best for: house or townhouse with small to medium outdoor space, medium waste volume, users who want contained and neat composting
How it works: sealed rotating drum. Add materials, spin the drum every 2-3 days to mix and aerate
Timeline to finished compost: 4-8 weeks in warm weather with proper balance
Pros: contained (fewer pest issues), easy to turn, relatively fast
Cons: limited capacity (30-80 gallons), can get heavy when full, costs $80-200
Volume capacity: handles 2-5 gallons of input per week
Static bin or pile:
Best for: house with yard, large waste volume, users who also have yard waste
How it works: pile or open-bottom bin on soil. Layer materials, turn with a fork every 1-2 weeks
Timeline to finished compost: 3-6 months (active turning) or 6-12 months (passive)
Pros: largest capacity, lowest cost (can be DIY), handles yard waste in bulk
Cons: requires more space (3x3 ft minimum), more pest management, visible in yard
Volume capacity: handles 5+ gallons of input per week
Vermicomposting (worm bin):
Best for: apartments, indoor spaces, small waste volumes, kitchen scraps only
How it works: red wiggler worms eat food scraps and produce worm castings (finished compost)
Timeline to finished compost: 3-6 months for first harvest
Pros: works indoors, compact (fits under sink or on balcony), odorless when managed correctly
Cons: requires maintaining live worms, limited to kitchen scraps (no yard waste), cannot handle large volumes
Volume capacity: handles 1-3 gallons of input per week per standard bin
Starting worm population: 1 lb of red wiggler worms per square foot of bin surface area
Explain the green/brown ratio. The foundation of successful composting:
Target ratio: 3 parts brown to 1 part green by volume
Green materials (nitrogen-rich -- "the fuel"):
Fruit and vegetable scraps
Coffee grounds and tea leaves (remove bags if not compostable)
Fresh grass clippings
Plant trimmings (green, not woody)
Eggshells (technically neutral, add freely)
Brown materials (carbon-rich -- "the structure"):
Dry leaves
Cardboard (torn into small pieces, remove tape and labels)
Newspaper (shredded, no glossy inserts)
Paper towels and napkins (unbleached preferred, no chemicals)
Straw or hay
Sawdust (untreated wood only)
Dryer lint (from natural fiber clothing only)
Set up the composting system. Step-by-step for each method:
Tumbler setup:
Place tumbler on a level surface with good drainage
Add a 3-inch layer of brown material as the base
Add kitchen scraps (greens) and cover with brown material (maintain 3:1 ratio)
Add water if contents feel dry (should feel like a wrung-out sponge)
Spin the tumbler 5-10 full rotations every 2-3 days
Continue adding and spinning until the tumbler is 75% full, then stop adding and let it finish
Static bin/pile setup:
Choose a level, well-drained spot. Partial shade is ideal (full sun dries it out, full shade slows decomposition)
Start with a 4-6 inch layer of coarse brown material (sticks, straw) for airflow at the base
Alternate layers: 3 inches of browns, 1 inch of greens, repeat
Water each layer lightly (moist, not soggy)
Turn the pile with a fork every 1-2 weeks for active composting
Provide troubleshooting guidance. Address the most common composting problems:
| Problem | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Bad smell (rotten, ammonia) | Too many greens, too wet, or not enough air | Add brown materials to restore 3:1 ratio. Turn the pile. If waterlogged, add dry browns and turn |
| Not decomposing (nothing happening) | Too dry, not enough greens, pile too small | Add water until moist. Add green materials. Ensure pile is at least 3x3x3 ft |
| Pests (fruit flies) | Exposed food scraps | Always bury food under browns. In worm bins, freeze scraps before adding (kills fly eggs) |
| Pests (rodents) | Meat, dairy, or oils in compost; open pile | Remove prohibited items. Use a closed bin or tumbler. Add hardware cloth to bottom of open bins |
| Compost is slimy | Too wet, too many greens, compacted | Add dry browns, turn to introduce air, spread pile slightly to increase airflow |
Provide seasonal and climate guidance:
Hot climate: Compost in shade, water more frequently (moisture evaporates fast), decomposition is very fast (tumbler may produce compost in 3-4 weeks)
Cold climate (freezing winters): Insulate bin with straw bales in winter. Decomposition slows significantly below 40F and stops below freezing. Continue adding materials -- they will decompose when temperatures rise in spring. Worm bins must be kept indoors or in heated spaces when temperatures drop below 40F
Humid climate: Monitor for excess moisture. May need to add extra browns. Ensure good drainage under bins
Dry climate: Water compost more frequently. Cover with a tarp to retain moisture
## Home Composting Setup Plan
### Composting Profile
| Parameter | Value |
|--------------------|------------------------------------|
| Housing type | [House / Apartment / Townhouse] |
| Space available | [Yard / Patio / Indoor only] |
| Waste volume | [Small / Medium / Large] |
| Climate | [Hot / Temperate / Cold / Humid] |
| Budget | [Minimal / Moderate / Flexible] |
### Recommended Method
| Feature | Your Setup |
|-------------------|-------------------------------------|
| Method | [Tumbler / Static bin / Vermicompost] |
| Bin type | [Description and size] |
| Location | [Where to place] |
| Starting cost | $[Range] |
| Capacity | [X gallons input per week] |
| Time to first compost | [X weeks/months] |
### Green/Brown Ratio Guide
| Add This (Green) | Add This (Brown) | Never Add |
|--------------------------|-------------------------------|--------------------|
| [Item 1] | [Item 1] | [Item 1] |
| [Item 2] | [Item 2] | [Item 2] |
| Target: 1 part | Target: 3 parts | |
### Setup Steps
1. [Step 1]
2. [Step 2]
3. [Step 3]
### Maintenance Schedule
| Task | Frequency | Notes |
|--------------------|---------------------|-----------------------|
| [Task 1] | [How often] | [Details] |
| [Task 2] | [How often] | [Details] |
### Troubleshooting Quick Reference
| Problem | Likely Cause | Fix |
|--------------------|---------------------|-----------------------|
| [Problem 1] | [Cause] | [Fix] |
### Estimated Impact
| Metric | Value |
|-----------------------|--------------------------------|
| Waste diverted | [X lbs/year from landfill] |
| Compost produced | [X cubic feet/year] |
| CO2e avoided | [X lbs/year] |NEVER recommend composting meat, dairy, oils, or pet waste in home composting systems -- these require industrial composting temperatures
ALWAYS specify the 3:1 brown-to-green ratio by volume as the target balance
The "wrung-out sponge" moisture test is the primary moisture guide -- compost should be moist but not dripping
Worm bins must be maintained between 55-77F -- below 40F worms die, above 90F worms die
Minimum pile size for thermal composting is 3x3x3 feet -- smaller piles will not generate sufficient heat for active decomposition
ALWAYS include the "never compost" list to prevent pest and odor problems
Never advocate for or against municipal composting policy -- focus on personal home composting setup
Troubleshooting must address the five most common problems: odor, no decomposition, fruit flies, rodents, and slimy compost
Climate-specific guidance must be included -- composting in Phoenix is fundamentally different from composting in Minnesota
For apartment dwellers, vermicomposting is the primary recommendation -- outdoor methods require yard space
User lives in an apartment with no outdoor space: Vermicomposting is the primary option. A worm bin fits under a kitchen sink or on a closet shelf. If the user is uncomfortable with worms, recommend community composting drop-off services if available in their area, or a countertop food scrap collector that can be emptied at a farmers market or community garden that accepts compost contributions.
User has tried composting and it smelled terrible: The smell almost always indicates too many greens and not enough browns. Walk the user through the 3:1 ratio correction. Have them add a thick layer of dry browns (shredded cardboard is readily available) and turn the pile. The smell should resolve within 2-3 days. Going forward, always add browns when adding greens.
User lives in bear or raccoon country: Use a tumbler or a bin with a locking lid and hardware cloth on the bottom. Never compost food scraps in an open pile in areas with large wildlife. Place the bin away from the house. In active bear areas, consider indoor composting (worm bin) instead, with outdoor composting limited to yard waste only.
User is in a cold climate with freezing winters: Composting does not need to stop in winter -- it just slows down. Continue adding scraps; they will freeze and decompose rapidly in spring. Insulate the bin with straw bales or a tarp. For worm bins, bring them indoors (garage or basement) when temperatures drop below 40F. Some users maintain a countertop scrap bin in winter and start outdoor composting in spring.
Input: "I live in a house in the Pacific Northwest with a small backyard. My family of 3 produces about 3-4 gallons of food scraps per week. We already have a lot of dry leaves from the trees in fall. I've never composted but I want to start diverting our food waste from the trash. I'd rather not spend too much on this."
Output:
| Parameter | Value |
|---|---|
| Housing type | House with small backyard |
| Space available | Backyard (small) |
| Waste volume | Medium (3-4 gallons/week food scraps) |
| Climate | Pacific Northwest (temperate, wet winters, mild summers) |
| Budget | Minimal to moderate |
A simple static bin is the best fit for your situation: you have yard space, a good supply of dry leaves (browns), and medium waste volume.
| Feature | Your Setup |
|---|---|
| Method | Static compost bin |
| Bin type | DIY wire mesh bin (4 wooden pallets or hardware cloth cylinder) or purchased bin ($30-60) |
| Location | Back corner of yard, partial shade, on soil (not concrete) |
| Starting cost | $0-30 (DIY) or $30-60 (purchased bin) |
| Capacity | Handles 3-5 gallons of food scraps per week plus dry leaves |
| Time to first compost | 4-6 months with active turning; faster in summer, slower in winter |
Your target: 3 parts brown to 1 part green by volume
| Add This (Green -- 1 part) | Add This (Brown -- 3 parts) | Never Add |
|---|---|---|
| Fruit and vegetable scraps | Dry leaves (your main supply) | Meat, fish, or bones |
| Coffee grounds and tea leaves | Shredded cardboard boxes | Dairy products |
| Eggshells | Shredded newspaper | Cooking oils and fats |
| Fresh plant trimmings | Paper towels (unbleached) | Dog or cat waste |
| Grass clippings (thin layer) | Small twigs and stems | Diseased plant material |
Pacific Northwest tip: You have abundant dry leaves in fall. Bag them and store dry for year-round brown material supply. This is your single greatest composting advantage.
Choose a spot in partial shade, on bare soil, accessible with a path (you will visit it every few days)
Build or place the bin. Minimum size: 3 ft x 3 ft x 3 ft
Collect 3-4 bags of dry leaves if available (your year-round brown supply)
Layer the base: 4-6 inches of dry leaves and small twigs
Add your first batch of kitchen scraps (1-2 gallons). Spread evenly
Cover with 3x the volume of dry leaves (this is the 3:1 ratio in action)
Water lightly if the leaves are very dry (PNW rain usually handles this)
Repeat each time you add scraps: food goes in, leaves go on top, always covered
| Task | Frequency | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Add kitchen scraps + leaves | Every 2-3 days | Always bury scraps under browns |
| Turn pile with garden fork | Every 1-2 weeks | Mixes air in, speeds decomposition |
| Check moisture level | Weekly | Should feel like a wrung-out sponge. PNW rain may over-wet in winter -- cover with a tarp if needed |
| Harvest finished compost | Every 4-6 months | Compost is ready when it looks like dark, crumbly soil and smells earthy |
| Problem | Likely Cause | Fix |
|---|---|---|
| Smells bad | Too many greens, too wet | Add a thick layer of dry leaves, turn the pile |
| Not decomposing | Too dry or pile too small | Add water, ensure pile is at least 3x3x3 ft |
| Fruit flies | Exposed food scraps | Always bury scraps under 3 inches of leaves |
| Soggy in PNW winter | Too much rain | Cover with a tarp, leaving sides open for air |
| Rodents | Food exposed or prohibited items added | Ensure food is always buried; remove any meat/dairy if accidentally added |
| Metric | Value |
|---|---|
| Food waste diverted | 600-800 lbs/year (3-4 gal/week x 52 weeks) |
| Dry leaves composted | 400-600 lbs/year (your brown supply) |
| Compost produced | 4-8 cubic feet of finished compost per year |
| CO2e avoided | ~500-700 lbs CO2e/year (food waste in landfill produces methane; composting produces CO2 instead, which has ~25x lower warming impact) |
| Cost savings | Reduced trash bag usage; free compost for garden (worth $30-60/year if purchased) |
SKILL.md
306 lines · 2,907 words
The text of SKILL.md is shown as it downloads, under the Apache-2.0 license, by Ferrox Labs. The license is the one in the file's own frontmatter.
Your new bot
Composting Starter Guide bot
Waiting in your sidebar once you say go.
Dead plant material and small twigs
Never compost these:
Meat, fish, or bones (attract pests, create odor)
Dairy products (attract pests, create odor)
Oils and fats (slow decomposition, attract pests)
Pet waste from dogs or cats (pathogens)
Diseased plants (spreads disease to garden)
Treated or painted wood (chemicals)
Glossy or coated paper (plastic coating)
Coal or charcoal ash (may contain harmful substances)
Vermicompost (worm bin) setup:
Prepare the bin: a shallow opaque container (8-12 inches deep) with drainage holes in the bottom and air holes in the lid
Prepare bedding: shredded newspaper or cardboard, moistened until it feels like a wrung-out sponge. Fill bin 3/4 full with bedding
Add worms: 1 lb of red wiggler worms per square foot of surface area
Let worms settle for 2-3 days before adding food
Bury food scraps under the bedding in different spots each time (rotate corners)
Add only as much food as worms can process in 1 week (start small, increase as population grows)
| Worms dying or escaping | Too hot, too acidic, or too wet in worm bin | Reduce citrus and onion scraps. Add dry bedding. Ensure drainage holes are working. Move bin to cooler location |
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