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Comprehensive automotive restoration guide covering project vehicle selection, condition assessment, restoration planning for both frame-off and partial approaches, parts sourcing strategies, bodywork basics, paint preparation, mechanical restoration order, budget tracking, and documentation practices.
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SKILL.md
550 lines · 2,883 words
Gather requirements. Ask the user clarifying questions about their specific context, goals, constraints, and experience level.
Analyze the situation. Review the information provided and identify key factors, challenges, and opportunities relevant to auto restoration.
Comprehensive automotive restoration guide covering project vehicle selection, condition assessment, restoration planning for both frame-off and partial approaches, parts sourcing strategies, bodywork basics, paint preparation, mechanical restoration order, budget tracking, and documentation practices.
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What it covers
When to Use
Process
Questions to Ask First
Project Vehicle Selection
Condition Assessment
Restoration Planning
Parts Sourcing
Bodywork Basics
Paint Preparation
Budget Tracking
Documentation
Common Mistakes to Avoid
Output Format
Example
Edge Cases
Develop the framework. Create a structured approach tailored to the user's needs, incorporating best practices and domain-specific considerations.
Deliver actionable output. Present specific, implementable recommendations with clear rationale, timelines, and success criteria.
Address edge cases. Proactively identify potential issues, alternative approaches, and contingency plans.
Use this skill when:
User needs guidance on auto restoration
User asks about auto restoration best practices or techniques
User wants a structured approach to auto restoration
Do NOT use this skill when:
A more specialized skill exists for the specific subtopic
The request is outside the scope of auto restoration
Before providing guidance, establish the restorer's situation:
What vehicle are you restoring? (Year, make, model)
What is the current condition? (Running, non-running, rolling shell, basket case)
What is your restoration goal? (Driver, show car, restomod, period-correct)
What is your total budget?
What is your timeline?
What tools and workspace do you have?
What is your mechanical experience level?
Are you doing everything yourself or outsourcing some work?
Do you have another vehicle for daily use during the restoration?
Is this car rare or a common model? (Affects parts availability)
BEST FIRST RESTORATION PROJECTS:
Characteristics of a good first project:
- Large aftermarket parts support (readily available parts)
- Active owner community and forums
- Relatively simple mechanicals
- Not too rare (practice on affordable cars)
- Complete car (even if rough, all parts present is critical)
POPULAR FIRST PROJECTS:
American:
- 1964-1970 Ford Mustang (massive parts availability)
- 1967-1969 Chevrolet Camaro (great community)
- 1955-1957 Chevrolet Bel Air (iconic, well-supported)
- 1968-1972 Chevrolet C10 Pickup (simple, parts everywhere)
- 1964-1972 Chevrolet Chevelle/Malibu
Import:
- 1989-1998 Mazda Miata (simple, affordable, great to learn on)
- 1966-1976 Datsun 240Z/260Z/280Z
- 1976-1985 Porsche 924/944 (more affordable than 911)
- Classic VW Beetle (air-cooled, simple, huge community)
- 1986-1992 BMW E30 3-Series
AVOID AS FIRST PROJECT:
- Basket cases (boxes of parts with no body)
- Extremely rare cars (parts are impossible or very expensive)
- Cars with complex electronics (pre-OBD cars are simpler)
- Unibody cars with severe rust (structural repair is very difficult)
- Cars requiring specialty skills you don't haveINSPECTION PRIORITIES (In Order of Importance):
1. BODY STRUCTURE (Most Expensive to Fix):
[ ] Frame/unibody condition (rust, cracks, damage)
[ ] Floor pans (probe with screwdriver for rust-through)
[ ] Rocker panels, quarter panels, wheel wells
[ ] Trunk floor and spare tire well
[ ] Cowl area (under windshield) - water trap, common rust
[ ] Door bottoms (drain holes often clog)
[ ] Frame rail integrity (body-on-frame vehicles)
2. COMPLETENESS:
[ ] Is the car complete? (All trim, glass, interior parts present)
[ ] Matching numbers? (Engine, transmission match VIN/data plate)
[ ] Title clear and in seller's name
[ ] Documentation (build sheet, window sticker, service records)
[ ] Are rare/unique parts still on the car?
3. MECHANICAL (Cheaper to Fix Than Body):
[ ] Engine condition (compression test if possible)
[ ] Transmission operation (shifts through all gears)
[ ] Differential condition (no whining, clunking)
[ ] Brake condition (drums/rotors, lines, master cylinder)
[ ] Suspension (bushings, ball joints, tie rods)
[ ] Electrical (does anything work?)
CONDITION RATING SCALE:
1 - Concours: Show-quality, as-new or better
2 - Excellent: Minor flaws, well-maintained
3 - Good: Needs some work, mostly complete
4 - Fair: Needs significant work, may be incomplete
5 - Poor: Major work needed, may not be complete
6 - Parts car: Severe damage or missing major components
RULE: A car in Condition 4 is usually the best value.
Condition 5-6 is often more expensive to restore than buying a 3.PHOTO DOCUMENTATION:
Take 100+ photos before touching anything:
[ ] All four corners, all four sides
[ ] Under the hood (overview and each component)
[ ] Undercarriage (every section, frame rails)
[ ] Interior (dash, seats, door panels, headliner, carpet)
[ ] Trunk (floor, sides, spare tire area)
[ ] All glass and weatherstripping
[ ] All trim and emblems
[ ] VIN plate, data plate, body tags, casting numbers
[ ] Every area of rust or damage
[ ] Engine bay details (wiring routing, hose routing)
[ ] Firewall (both sides)
VIDEO:
Walk-around video with narration of conditions
Start-up video (if running) noting sounds and smoke
Drive video (if drivable) noting handling and noises
MEASUREMENT AND TAGGING:
Bag and tag every bolt, bracket, and small part during disassembly
Label bags with location and photo reference number
Measure gaps between panels (for reassembly reference)
Note paint codes, trim codes, and option codes from data plateCATEGORY | CONDITION (1-10) | REPAIR/REPLACE | EST. COST
-----------------|-----------------|----------------|----------
Frame/Structure | | | $
Floor pans | | | $
Fenders | | | $
Doors | | | $
Hood/Trunk | | | $
Roof | | | $
Rockers/Quarters | | | $
Glass | | | $
Chrome/Trim | | | $
Interior | | | $
Engine | | | $
Transmission | | | $
Rear axle | | | $
Suspension | | | $
Brakes | | | $
Electrical | | | $
Exhaust | | | $
Fuel system | | | $
Cooling system | | | $
Paint/Body | | | $
TOTAL ESTIMATE: $________
RULE OF THUMB: Whatever you estimate, multiply by 1.5-2x
for actual cost. Surprises are inevitable.FRAME-OFF (Complete Disassembly):
What: Remove body from frame, restore every component separately
When: Full restoration to show condition or severe rust/damage
Timeline: 12-36 months typical (often longer)
Cost: $20,000-$100,000+ depending on vehicle
Pros: Address every issue, highest quality result
Cons: Very expensive, very long, easy to lose motivation
Warning: Many frame-off restorations never get finished
PARTIAL (Rolling) RESTORATION:
What: Address specific systems without full disassembly
When: Car is in decent shape, driver-quality goal
Timeline: 3-12 months
Cost: $5,000-$30,000 depending on scope
Pros: Faster, cheaper, car stays somewhat together
Cons: May miss hidden issues, compromises in hard-to-reach areas
RESTOMOD:
What: Classic appearance with modern mechanicals
RECOMMENDATION FOR FIRST RESTORATION:
Start with a partial restoration focused on:
1. Safety (brakes, steering, tires)
2. Reliability (engine, cooling, electrical)
3. Appearance (paint, interior, trim)
Get it driving first, then decide if you want to go further.RECOMMENDED SEQUENCE (Frame-Off):
PHASE 1: DISASSEMBLY AND ASSESSMENT
1. Document everything (photos, video, tags)
2. Remove interior
3. Remove engine and transmission
4. Remove suspension and brakes
5. Remove body from frame (body-on-frame)
6. Strip body to bare metal
7. Full assessment of all components
PHASE 2: STRUCTURAL AND BODY
8. Frame repair/media blast/coat
9. Sheet metal repair (floor pans, patch panels)
10. Bodywork (filler, block sanding)
11. Panel alignment (all gaps even before paint)
12. Primer and final body preparation
13. Paint (base coat, clear coat or single stage)
14. Wet sand and buff (if needed)
PHASE 3: MECHANICAL
15. Engine rebuild or replacement
16. Transmission rebuild or replacement
17. Differential rebuild
18. Suspension rebuild (new bushings, ball joints, etc.)
19. Brake system rebuild (new lines, master cylinder, calipers/drums)
20. Fuel system (new tank, lines, pump, carburetor/injection)
21. Cooling system (radiator, hoses, water pump, thermostat)
22. Exhaust system
PHASE 4: ELECTRICAL
23. New wiring harness (or restoration of existing)
24. Lighting (headlights, taillights, turn signals, interior)
25. Gauges and instruments
26. Ignition system
27. Charging system (alternator, battery)
PHASE 5: ASSEMBLY
28. Mount body on frame (or reassemble unibody)
29. Install engine and transmission
30. Install suspension and brakes
31. Install glass and weatherstripping
32. Interior installation (carpet, seats, panels, headliner)
33. Trim and emblems
34. Final wiring connections
35. Fill all fluids, adjust, tune
PHASE 6: COMMISSIONING
36. Static tests (all systems check)
37. First start procedure
38. Break-in period (engine, transmission)
39. Road test and adjustment
40. Final detail and preservationNEW REPRODUCTION PARTS:
Manufacturer websites:
- CJ Pony Parts (Mustang)
- Classic Industries (GM)
- Year One (GM, Mopar, Ford)
- National Parts Depot (Ford, GM)
- Moss Motors (British cars)
- Pelican Parts (Porsche, BMW, Mercedes)
Pros: New, warranty, correct fit (usually)
Cons: Can be expensive, quality varies
USED/NOS (New Old Stock) PARTS:
- eBay Motors (largest selection)
- Hemmings.com
- Forums and Facebook groups for your specific car
- Swap meets (Carlisle, Hershey, local events)
- Salvage yards specializing in classic cars
Pros: Original, sometimes cheaper, NOS is ideal
Cons: Condition unknown, return policies vary
REBUILDERS AND SPECIALISTS:
- Engine machine shops (rebuilding your original engine)
- Transmission rebuilders
- Carburetor specialists
- Speedometer repair shops
- Chrome plating shops
- Upholstery shops (seats, door panels, headliners, convertible tops)
PARTS CROSS-REFERENCE:
Many parts are shared across models and years
Research which parts interchange with your carTYPICAL COST BREAKDOWN BY CATEGORY:
Category | % of Total Budget
------------------|------------------
Body/Paint | 25-35%
Engine/Drivetrain | 20-30%
Interior | 10-15%
Suspension/Brakes | 10-15%
Electrical | 5-10%
Chrome/Trim | 5-10%
Glass/Weatherstrip| 5-8%
Miscellaneous | 5-10%
Always include 10-15% contingency for unexpected discoveriesSURFACE RUST (Paint bubbling, surface oxidation):
Fix: Sand to bare metal, treat with rust converter, prime, paint
Difficulty: Easy
Cost: $50-$200 per area
PENETRATING RUST (Holes, structural loss):
Fix: Cut out damaged metal, weld in patch panels
Difficulty: Moderate to Advanced (requires welding skills)
Cost: $200-$1,000+ per area
STRUCTURAL RUST (Frame rails, subframe, unibody structure):
Fix: Frame repair or replacement sections
Difficulty: Advanced (professional recommended)
Cost: $1,000-$10,000+
RULE: If you can push a screwdriver through it, it must be cut out and replaced.
Bondo over rust is NOT a repair - it's hiding a problem that will return.WHEN TO USE BODY FILLER:
- Minor dents and dings (under 1/4" deep)
- Smoothing minor imperfections after metalwork
- Finishing welds flush with surrounding metal
WHEN NOT TO USE:
- Over rust (filler doesn't stop rust, it hides it)
- Deep dents (hammer and dolly first, then thin filler layer)
- As structural repair (it has no structural strength)
- Thick applications (maximum 1/8" per layer)
APPLICATION PROCESS:
1. Sand area to bare metal (80 grit)
2. Mix filler with hardener (2% hardener by volume, small golf-ball amounts)
3. Apply in thin coats, pressing firmly into surface
4. Let cure until rubbery (can still file), then shape with cheese grater file
5. Let fully cure (hard to the touch)
6. Sand: 80 grit rough shape → 150 grit contour → 220 grit smooth → 320 grit final
7. Apply glazing putty for pinholes
8. Sand glazing putty with 320-400 grit
9. Prime and block sandPAINT PREP WORKFLOW:
1. BARE METAL: Strip to bare metal (media blasting, chemical strip, or DA sander)
2. ETCH PRIMER: Apply epoxy or self-etching primer to bare metal (within hours)
3. HIGH-BUILD PRIMER: Apply 2-3 coats of urethane primer-surfacer
4. BLOCK SAND: Sand primer with long sanding block (guide coat technique)
- Apply guide coat (contrasting color mist over primer)
- Block sand with 320-400 grit
- Low spots revealed where guide coat remains
- Fill low spots, re-prime, re-block until flat
5. FINAL SAND: 400-600 grit for base coat/clear coat
6. CLEAN: Wax and grease remover, tack cloth
7. MASK: Cover all areas not being painted
8. SEALER: Apply sealer coat (ensures even color)
9. BASE COAT: Apply base color in 2-3 even coats
10. CLEAR COAT: Apply 3-4 coats of clear coat
11. CURE: Let cure per manufacturer specs (24-72 hours)
12. WET SAND AND BUFF: 1500-3000 grit, then compound and polish
PAINT OPTIONS:
Single-stage (color + gloss in one): Easier, period-correct for older cars
Base coat / clear coat: Modern, more durable, easier to repair
Urethane: Most durable, professional standard
Lacquer: Period-correct for some eras, not as durable
DIY PAINTING:
Minimum: Well-ventilated garage, HVLP spray gun, compressor (60+ gallon)
Cost for materials: $500-$1,500 (primer, paint, clear, supplies)
Professional paint job: $3,000-$10,000+ (more for show quality)
WARNING: Paint fumes are toxic. Use a proper respirator with organic
vapor cartridges. Adequate ventilation is essential.RESTORATION BUDGET TRACKER
Vehicle: _________________ Target Completion: _________
Total Budget: $____________ Contingency (15%): $________
CATEGORY | BUDGET | ACTUAL | VARIANCE
------------------|----------|----------|----------
Vehicle purchase | $ | $ | $
Body/Paint | $ | $ | $
Engine | $ | $ | $
Transmission | $ | $ | $
Suspension | $ | $ | $
Brakes | $ | $ | $
Electrical | $ | $ | $
Interior | $ | $ | $
Glass/Weatherstrip| $ | $ | $
Chrome/Trim | $ | $ | $
Exhaust | $ | $ | $
Fuel system | $ | $ | $
Cooling | $ | $ | $
Tools purchased | $ | $ | $
Outsourced work | $ | $ | $
Miscellaneous | $ | $ | $
TOTAL | $ | $ | $
MONTHLY SPENDING LOG:
Month: ___________
| Date | Item/Service | Vendor | Cost |
|-------|----------------------|------------|---------|
| | | | $ |
| | | | $ |
MONTHLY TOTAL: | $ |
COST vs. VALUE REALITY CHECK:
For most cars, you will spend more on restoration than the car
is worth. Restore because you love the car, not as an investment.
Exceptions: Rare, desirable models in the right market conditions.ORGANIZE IN SECTIONS:
1. VEHICLE INFORMATION
- VIN decoding
- Data plate information
- Option codes and build sheet
- Production numbers
- Original window sticker (if available)
2. BEFORE PHOTOS
- Organized by area (exterior, interior, engine, undercarriage)
- Dated and annotated
3. DURING PHOTOS
- Progress photos by phase and date
- Document discoveries (hidden damage, previous repairs)
4. PARTS RECORDS
- Purchase receipts
- Vendor contact information
- Part numbers and interchange notes
- Warranty information
5. WORK LOG
- Date, hours worked, tasks completed
- Decisions made and why
- Problems encountered and solutions
6. FINANCIAL RECORDS
- All receipts and invoices
- Running cost total
- Budget vs. actual tracking
7. REFERENCE MATERIALS
- Assembly manual
- Parts catalog
- Technical service bulletins
- Forum posts and expert advice saved
This documentation adds significant value at sale and provides
invaluable reference during and after restoration.Starting without a complete assessment and realistic budget
Bondo over rust (the rust returns and the repair fails)
Not documenting before disassembly (impossible to remember how it goes back together)
Buying the cheapest project car to save money (a worse car costs more in the end)
Trying to do everything at once instead of completing one system before starting the next
Not having a daily driver during restoration (pressure to rush leads to poor work)
Underestimating paint preparation time (prep is 80% of a good paint job)
Losing motivation during the "ugly middle" phase (stay connected to car communities)
Not keeping a parts and spending log (costs spiral without tracking)
Skipping safety items to save money (brakes, steering, and tires are not optional)
Deliver the response as a structured document with clear headings and actionable content. Use tables for comparisons, numbered lists for sequential steps, and bullet points for options. Include specific examples where applicable.
[Auto Restoration deliverable]
1. Context and objectives
2. Analysis or framework
3. Specific recommendations with rationale
4. Action items with timelineInput: "Help me with auto restoration for a mid-size project."
Output: A complete auto restoration framework tailored to the specific context, with actionable steps, relevant considerations, and measurable outcomes.
Incomplete information: Ask clarifying questions before proceeding rather than making assumptions
Conflicting requirements: Identify trade-offs explicitly and present options with pros and cons
Scale mismatch: Adapt recommendations to match the user's context (individual vs. team vs. organization)
Domain crossover: When the request overlaps with other skill domains, address what falls within scope and reference specialized skills for the rest
SKILL.md
550 lines · 2,883 words
The text of SKILL.md is shown as it downloads, under the Apache-2.0 license, by Ferrox Labs. The license is the one in the file's own frontmatter.
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